HANNAH & JOHN
HISTORY LOVERS
Welcome to Virginia!
If you are a history lover, you are in for a treat! Not only will you be surrounded by history throughout Colonial Williamsburg, you will be immersed in history while sitting in the pews of Bruton Parish and while dancing on the grounds of the Governor’s Palace!
Patriots such as Thomas Jefferson, George Washington, James Madison, John Tyler, Benjamin Harrison, George Wythe, Patrick Henry and George Mason worshiped in Bruton Parish Episcopal Church, a national historic landmark.
The Governor’s Palace was home to seven royal governors and the first two elected governors in Virginia, Patrick Henry and Thomas Jefferson. In fact, four of our country’s first five presidents were born in Virginia, and they studied, worshiped and conceived the ideals of liberty, independence and personal freedom in Williamsburg.
Williamsburg, Jamestown and Yorktown, collectively known as the historic triangle, are linked by the gorgeous 23-mile long Colonial Parkway which meanders along the James and York Rivers. If you hop on the parkway in Williamsburg and head east you will find that it brings you directly to Yorktown. Head the other direction, and the parkway will conveniently deposit you in Jamestown. Even if you are only heading to Yorktown for lunch, we still encourage you to drive there via the beautiful Colonial Parkway.
We’ve curated some of our favorite website links below for you to access practical information about visiting and to delve deeper into the history of these recommended destinations.
WILLIAMSBURG
Named in honor of King William III, Virginia’s colonial capital was largely rescued through the efforts of Reverend Dr. W.A.R. Goodwin. While serving as rector of Bruton Parish, Reverend Goodwin reached out to John D. Rockefeller, Jr. in the 1920’s and persuaded him to invest in the preservation and restoration of Williamsburg’s colonial area. Reverend Goodwin’s passion combined with Mr. Rockefeller’s wealth to create what is today the country’s largest “living museum.”
The important sites are all within walking distance of each other. The very charming Duke of Gloucester street (known to locals as DOG street) runs through the center of the historic area. It is easy to orientate yourself once you see that the one mile long street is anchored on one end by the College of William & Mary and by The Capitol on the other.
You can shop, eat and stroll throughout the historic area free of charge, but tickets are required to enter the buildings where historical interpreters re-enact history and lead guided tours. If you are short on time, it is a treat to just walk around the area, soak in the ambience and enjoy the animals of CW’s rare breed program, but - if you have time - we highly recommend buying a ticket (see link below). The tours are wonderful: entertaining, educational and family friendly. Don’t miss the Capitol and the Courthouse, but save the Governor’s Palace, as you will be able to enjoy a private viewing during our wedding reception.
It is advisable but not necessary to purchase your tickets in advance. https://www.colonialwilliamsburg.org/tickets/
You can redeem tickets digitally on the date you selected when purchasing them, or in person at the Lumber House Ticket Office (108 W Duke of Gloucester Street), the Art Museums of CW (301 S. Nassau Street), or at the Visitor Center (101 Visitor Center Drive), where they also offer an orientation film.
Tip: If you enter the historic district from the college anchor point, you will first discover a retail and dining area known as Merchants’ Square, where you can enjoy an Illy coffee and a delicious Cheese Shop sandwich (See “For The Foodies”).
CW writes a blog with short, interesting articles: https://www.colonialwilliamsburg.org/learn/blog/
The History Mom website is filled with EXCELLENT tips, advice, practical information and a suggested itinerary for tackling CW: https://thehistorymom.com/2020/01/15/colonial-williamsburg-virginia/
THE COLLEGE OF WILLIAM & MARY
Tour the beautiful campus of our nation’s oldest law school and second oldest university, chartered in 1693. Named for King William III and Queen Mary II, The College of William and Mary counts three of America’s first five Presidents (Thomas Jefferson, James Monroe and John Tyler), sixteen members of the Continental Congress, four signers of the Declaration of Independence, and four US Supreme Court Justices among its alumni. Stroll along the brick paths and admire the historic buildings where George Washington served as chancellor from 1788 until his death in 1799.
Don’t miss the Sir Christopher Wren building, the oldest American college building in continual use. Within the Wren building you will find the beautiful Wren Chapel (where alumni of the college may choose to be married, including Hannah’s parents, her sister and her aunt). It is a beautiful, small chapel with center facing pews and wonderful acoustics.
Saturday morning organ recitals in the Sir Christopher Wren chapel are free and open to the public. https://www.wm.edu/about/history/historiccampus/visiting/organrecitals/index.php
Just for Fun: Immediately west of the James Blair building on campus you will find the Tyler Family Garden, three bronze busts of the Tyler family. To find the James Blair building, when you enter the Sunken Gardens by the main brick steps, walk almost to the end of the garden and it will be on the right hand side. Or just walk down the path with the Sunken Gardens on your left (when coming from the historic area). Stand in the middle of the brick circle on the X – face the James Blair building wall - and say anything you want. You will hear an unexpected echo which no one else will be able to hear! Great fun.
https://www.virginiahistory.org/node/2289
(https://www.wm.edu/offices/deanofstudents/services/communityvalues/studenthandbook/history_of_william_and_mary/index.php)
JAMESTOWN
Until 1994, you would have been told that the original 1607 fort where Pocahontas married John Rolfe was under water somewhere in the James River. In 1963, a William & Mary graduate student named William Kelso listened to that theory with skepticism. Years later, armed with a Ph.D. in historical archeology, he reached out to the Virginia Preservation Society to ask if he could poke around a bit. In short order, he and his team uncovered enough evidence to prove that the remains of the fort existed on dry land - and thus began the Jamestown Rediscovery Project, referred to by Time magazine as one of the greatest archeological finds of our times.
There are two parts to Jamestown: Historic Jamestowne (site of the original fort and dig site of the first permanent English settlement in North America and, yes, spelled with an “e”), and Jamestown Settlement (a living history museum). You can easily see both in the same day. Stop at the cafe in Historic Jamestowne or the cafeteria-style restaurant in Jamestown Settlement for lunch.
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Historic Jamestowne: Tours are offered by both costumed interpreters from the VA Preservation Society, and by National Park Rangers – we love the reenactments of the costumed interpreters, but both tours are worthwhile.Top sights are the church where Pocahontas was married, and a small but beautifully curated museum (The Archaearium) where the spectacular finds of the Jamestown Rediscovery Project are on display (armor, tools, coins, religious objects, skeletons from “the starving time” and the largest known collection of colonial Virginia Indian artifacts).
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Jamestown Settlement: Fun and interactive museum with a 24-minute film (“A Nation Takes Root”). The museum offers loads of hands-on activities for kids where they can also explore replicas of the three ships that brought the colonists to America (the Susan Constant, Discovery and Godspeed).
Daily tour schedules, itineraries and ticket information:
https://historicjamestowne.org/visit/visit-guide/
https://thehistorymom.com/2019/10/16/jamestown-virginia/
Background information:
https://www.history.com/news/jamestown-colony-settlement-facts
https://www.history.com/this-day-in-history/pocahontas-marries-john-rolfe
Behind a pay wall, but you can read three free articles first.
https://www.nationalgeographic.com/news/2010/11/101110-pocahontas-wedding-chapel-jamestown-science/
YORKTOWN
If you’ve seen the Broadway hit Hamilton, you’ll remember the song "Yorktown 1781", where “the world turned upside down”. History buffs, revolutionary (& civil war) enthusiasts, and Hamilton fans alike will love touring Yorktown, where America emerged victorious from the last major battle of the Revolutionary War.
Yorktown has two major sites to visit:
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The Battlefields (and visitor center): Stop first at the visitor center to watch "The Siege of Yorktown" film and pick up your park entrance pass ($10/car) and driving map. Head out to self-drive the 16-mile long stretch of battlefields and encampment roads, then visit the Moore house where the British army surrendered to Generals Washington and Lafayette. You can also join guided ranger tours and special programs daily from the visitor center. https://www.nps.gov/york/planyourvisit/index.htm
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The American Revolution Museum at Yorktown: This fabulous new museum opened to rave reviews in the spring of 2017. Be sure not to miss the fully immersive theater experience, complete with rumbling seats, flashing lights and smoke. For tickets: https://jyfemail.jyf.virginia.gov/eStore/Default.aspx?_ga=2.176278124.876838910.1606779722-1719151555.1606391407
The History Mom website has excellent tips to make sure you get the most out of the experience (i.e. redoubts 9 and 10 are not to be missed for Hamilton fans!) https://thehistorymom.com/2019/08/21/yorktown-virginia/
Outside of the historic area, Yorktown has a charming retail and dining area along the waterfront known as Riverwalk. We highly recommend a burger at the Yorktown Pub! There is a free trolley that takes you between the main tourist destinations, like the fantastic Victory Monument, but it does not include the battlefields. https://www.visityorktown.org/153/Riverwalk-Landing
JAMES RIVER PLANTATIONS
Enjoy a picturesque drive along Route 5 to Charles City where you’ll find the James River Plantations. These are the homes where some of our nation’s great patriots - and ten of our first presidents - either visited, fought, were born, lived, or died. Many witnessed both the Revolutionary and the Civil wars, some served as wartime hospitals, and others barely escaped burning and pillaging by the infamous traitor, Benedict Arnold. Beyond their historical significance, however, we love the plantations for humanizing these historical figures with tales of how they lived, fought, loved and mourned.
Stop en route at Indian Fields Tavern for a fantastic burger or visit Upper Shirley vineyards next to Shirley Plantation to enjoy an upscale lunch or dinner in a friendly, casual environment.
Note: Most tickets can be purchased on site when you arrive, but Sherwood Forest requires tickets purchased in advance (link below.)
Here are our picks of the Plantations:
Sherwood Forest
Sherwood Forest is the retirement home of President John Tyler, Vice President to President William Henry Harrison of the “Tippecanoe and Tyler, Too” campaign.
Tyler was known as the “accidental” President after being the first Vice President in history to ascend to the Presidency after the death of a President. Although the Constitution made no provisions for rules of succession at that time, Tyler stepped into the role. (It is thought that 68-year-old President Harrison died just 31 days into his term as a result of pneumonia, after delivering what is the longest inaugural speech on record, at 8,455 words, in wet freezing weather without a hat, coat or gloves. Interestingly, President William Harrison’s grandson became our 23rd President and delivered the shortest inaugural speech on record!)
President Tyler’s private life could be the subject of a reality tv show today. His first wife, mother to his first eight children, died several months into his Presidency. Remarkably, a short five months later the 53-year-old President began pursuing 20-year-old debutante Julia Gardiner, reportedly chasing her around the furniture of The White House to kiss her. As the beautiful eldest daughter of a wealthy New York family, Julia was actually smitten with President’s Tyler’s oldest (and very married) son. After losing her prospects upon the untimely death of her father, Julia agreed to marry President Tyler in 1844, and at only 24-years-old, became First Lady of the United States. They went on to have seven children of their own, making President Tyler the most prolific of all our presidents. Who said history was boring?
Listen to Julia Gardiner’s fascinating story on the Memory Palace podcast here: https://thememorypalace.us/the-rose-of-long-island/
Unpopular with both parties and a loyal Confederate, President Tyler’s death remains the only one in history not to be officially recognized in Washington, D.C. No reservations are needed for a self-guided grounds tour of Sherwood Forest ($10 payable at the entrance honesty box), but you will need to either write or call for an appointment to tour the three ground rooms open to the public. Tickets are $35 per adult, $25 per school age child:
Sherwood Forest Plantation Foundation
PO Box 104
Charles City, VA 23030
(804) 829-5377
Fascinating Trivia:
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Julia Gardiner Tyler was not our country’s youngest first lady. That distinction goes to Frances Folsom, who became FLOTUS at the age of 21 when she married President Grover Cleveland, 27 years her senior and her legal guardian. President Cleveland had entered the White House as a lifelong bachelor and is the only president thus far to be married in the White House, and the only one to serve two nonconsecutive terms (having lost to President Benjamin Harrison in the interim term).
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The tradition of playing “Hail to the Chief” at every presidential entrance to official events is attributed to Julia Tyler.
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Amazingly, although born in 1790, John Tyler still has a LIVING grandson in Charles City, Virginia. https://youtu.be/dGiL2PgC17A
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It wasn’t until 1967, after the assassination of President John F. Kennedy, that the 25th Amendment was ratified, providing procedures for replacing the President or Vice President in the event of death, removal, resignation or incapacitation.
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Sherwood Forest is the longest frame house in the United States at 300 feet – designed for the Virginia Reel!
https://thehistorymom.com/2020/09/23/sherwood-forest-virginia/
Berkeley Plantation
This is our favorite plantation home to visit. The historic home and extensive gardens are simply beautiful, and you can wander all the way down to the river where there is a small family cemetery surrounded by old southern magnolia trees.
Berkeley was purchased by Benjamin Harrison III in 1691, but the house itself was built in 1726 by his oldest son, Benjamin Harrison IV.
Benjamin Harrison IV quite literally married the girl-next-door, his neighbor Anne Carter of Shirley Plantation. Although it was a strategic marriage between two important families, it was also a great love match. During the building of Berkeley, Benjamin IV carved a heart with their initials and date above the side door – it stands today as a testament to his devotion. Sadly, both he and his daughter, Hannah, were killed by a lightning strike on the second floor of their home (a newspaper report at that time incorrectly stated two daughters were killed). It is said that Anne took to her bed in shock, and died of a broken heart within the month.
Their son, Benjamin Harrison V, went on to become one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, and HIS youngest son, William Henry Harrison became our 9th President (learn about his Presidency in the section on Sherwood Forrest, above). Their family’s political legacy continued to grow when President William Harrison’s grandson, Benjamin Harrison, became our 23rd President.
The first 10 presidents of the United States are known to have strategized, visited or slept at Berkeley Plantation. The beautiful manor home was spared from being burned to the ground (like many of its neighbors) by traitor Benedict Arnold, who envisioned it becoming his home as one of the spoils of war. Finding himself on the wrong side of history, of course, he instead returned to England to a mixed reception and Berkeley stands today for us to enjoy.
Berkeley was also a site of major importance in the civil war. Here is where the military tune “Taps” was written and first played. Don’t miss walking down to the river where you’ll find a small Taps Memorial; press the button and listen to the haunting strains of the beautiful, patriotic melody while pondering our nation’s history.
In the basement of the main house, you’ll find a museum of revolutionary and civil war artifacts and a short introductory film.
Recently, large portions of the 2019 movie Harriet, based on the life of Harriet Tubman, were filmed here: https://youtu.be/GXr4IiBeK8U
Enter through the small gift shop to buy your tickets - $15/adult, which includes a guided tour of the house. http://www.berkeleyplantation.com/index.html
Shirley Plantation
If you’ve toured Berkeley Plantation, you won’t want to miss Shirley, the next plantation house along Route 5. The ancestral home of Anne Carter Harrison (wife of Benjamin Harrison IV), it was built in 1613; the home and lands are still owned and farmed by descendants of the original Carter family.
The current generation and their young children actually live in the house and operate it as a house museum. The main floor of the estate and the surrounding grounds and buildings are open to visitors.
The house is famous for its beautiful “flying” staircase. Whet your appetite to see it in person by watching Bob Villa as he tours Shirley Plantation with the current owner: https://youtu.be/em1qaCXjlmU
For tickets, hours and additional historical information see: https://shirleyplantation.com
Tip: Upper Shirley Vineyards adjoins the plantation home and offers fantastic wine, food, and river views. As the restaurant is along the very popular Capital Bike Trail between Williamsburg and Richmond, you will often see large numbers of cyclists enjoying a break on the beautiful verandas of the restaurant.
Westover
Built circa 1750 by William Byrd, III, son of the founder of Richmond, Virginia, Westover is widely known for its beautiful Georgian architecture and gorgeous 18th century gates. The gates are topped with majestic eagles (a play on the name “Byrd”), while the pillars of the surrounding fence are capped with symbols of virtue: a beehive for industry, a pineapple for hospitality, a Greek key representing wisdom, the cornucopia for plenty, flowers for beauty, and an acorn to symbolize perseverance.
Tours of the grounds, walled garden (burial site of William Byrd) and ancillary buildings are self-guided – put your money in the honesty box at the entrance, take a pamphlet, and wander around.
Don’t miss the “unique” five-seater dependency, complete with a fireplace! Hmmmmm…..
Tip: The home has been privately owned by multiple generations of the Crane family since 1921. The home itself is closed to the public except for previously arranged tours for parties of two or more.
AFRICAN AMERICAN HISTORY
James Armistead
Do you know the story of James Armistead?
In November of 1775, Virginia’s British Royal Governor, Lord Dunmore, announced that freedom would be granted to any slave who left his master to serve alongside British forces. Within a month, three hundred slaves did exactly that. In response, George Washington and Congress also recruited African Americans into the ranks of the Continental Army.
An enslaved man, James was assigned to serve under the Marquis de Lafayette, Commander of the allied French troops, who tasked him with infiltrating the British army as a spy. Posing as a runaway slave, Armistead’s knowledge of the local terrain was useful to the British, so they also assigned him the task of spying...but on the colonies!
As a double spy, James supplied Lafayette with accurate and crucial information on British tactics, while passing inaccurate information to Cornwallis and the British. His most important contribution was sending a note to Lafayette detailing the British army’s impending move to Yorktown with 10,000 troops. Lafayette passed the intel along to George Washington, which ultimately forced the British commander to surrender on October 19, 1781!!!
Unbelievably, after the war, James learned that his work as a spy was not covered under the Virginia law stating that enslaved men who “have faithfully served agreeable to the terms of their enlistment, and have thereby of course contributed towards the establishment of American liberty and independence, should enjoy the blessings of freedom as a reward for their toils and labours.” Although he repeatedly petitioned the courts for his freedom, it wasn’t until General Lafayette provided a testimonial that James’ contribution was instrumental in America gaining her freedom that James was awarded his own freedom in 1787. Lafayette was the most vocal critic of slavery in Washington’s army and “was troubled by the failure of the founding generation to confront the great paradox of a people dedicated to freedom holding others in bondage.”
Thereafter, James received $40/year from the Virginia legislature. He went on to buy forty acres of land to farm near New Kent, VA, lived a quiet life as a husband and father, and changed his name to James Armistead Lafayette, in honor of the French general. During a return visit to the U.S. in 1824, General Lafayette recognized James in one of the crowds and warmly embraced him.
It is believed that George Washington’s appreciation for African American contributions to the war effort led to his eventual decision to free his slaves upon his death, becoming the most prominent founder to do so.
https://www.history.com/news/battle-of-yorktown-slave-spy-james-armistead
https://www.battlefields.org/learn/biographies/james-armistead-lafayette
https://www.historyisfun.org/blog/james-armistead-lafayette/
https://www.battlefields.org/learn/articles/african-americans-and-war-independence
First Baptist Church
With a historically black congregation, the First Baptist Church in Virginia was organized in 1776 when it was unlawful for African-Americans to assemble, the same year that twelve of the original Thirteen Colonies signed the Declaration of Independence. The congregation met in secret just outside of Williamsburg, until Mr. Jesse Cole, a white man who was moved upon hearing the congregation’s hymns and prayer, offered them the use of his carriage house on the corner of Nassau and Francis street - as long as it was for religious purposes. More than five hundred persons, free and enslaved, gathered there each week under the spiritual leadership of Gowin Pamphlet, a slave. Remarkably, in 1791, Mr. Pamphlet applied to join the all-white Dover Baptist Association and was accepted in 1793, making him the first ordained black preacher in America, enslaved or free.
In the 1950’s, the Colonial Williamsburg foundation bought the land and paved it to provide additional parking space for the historic area. Sadly, while CW did bear the expense of relocating the church, the only acknowledgement of the historic church’s original location was a small metal plaque.
Today, however, to fulfill its commitment to honor the lives of black persons whose contributions helped build our country, The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation has embarked upon The First Baptist Church Archaeology Project (in collaboration with the Let Freedom Ring Foundation, the College of William & Mary, local museums, churches and many others). You can watch the ongoing archeology dig of the First Baptist Church on the corner of Francis and S. Nassau Streets in Colonial Williamsburg, and follow archeological updates at https://www.colonialwilliamsburg.org/learn/research-and-education/archaeology/first-baptist-church/?utm_campaign=archaeology&utm_content=introductoryprojectdirectorvideo&utm_medium=social&utm_source=youtube
The church’s historical significance was further acknowledged in 2016, when its original brass bell was restored and was rung by President Obama at the opening of the National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington D.C.
For videos and additional information:
https://media.colonialwilliamsburg.org/media/documents/FINAL_FBC_news_release.pdf
https://www.wired.com/story/first-baptist-chuch-colonial-williamsburg-history/